We have just returned from a week in Kerala, a state in the southwestern tip of India. Three guests from Italy travelled with us: Angelo, Sandro and his wife Sabrina. Below is my journal of our time there….
Fri, Sept 11- Flew from Delhi through Hydrebad to Kochi. Gio was a perfect traveller even though he has a cold and has 3 teeth coming in at once. Huge van met us that fit us all. Drove to Malabar House in Fort Cochin. Beautiful clean rooms with an inner courtyard and pool. In the evening went to see a Kathakali show- a traditional dance/play of Kerala. We went early to watch the performers apply makeup. Gio fell asleep at the start and was passed out for the entire performance. Dinner back at Malabar House- huge plates of grilled seafood.
Sat, Sept 12- Early morning walk all around Fort Cochin with Giovanni. Then a great breakfast- best toast we have ever had! An Italian-speaking guide came to take us around the town. Saw oldest Christian church in India, and Chinese fishing nets in action. Had a coffee at Kashi Arts Cafe and then drove to Jew Town (yes, this is the actual name!) where only about 11 Jewish people still live. Most went back to Israel when they were offered free transport and jobs- now an area for antique shopping. Also saw Dutch House museum- nice but too hot inside. Then off on 4 hour drive west into the mountains. Gio slept much of way. Saw beautiful waterfalls, pineapple and tea plantations. Arrived at our mountain hideaway, Tall Trees, in time for a rest, shower and dinner. Rain began at end of drive so everything very wet and quite cool. Place not as nice as Cochin (very damp, rustic) and food not as good but setting is spectacular. I stayed at our cottage while Gio slept and the others went off to dinner.
Sun, Sept 13- I took Gio on a lovely run in the hills this morning. Everyone was quite amused by me running (in shorts) with Gio in the B.O.B. stroller. Breakfast and then off with a guide to visit the area. Started with a walk to see a tea plantation. Then drove up to the Eravikulam National Park and took a bus into the park. Mist and rain made it not such a great visit. Saw only one goat and a lot of fog. Oh well. Best part was bus ride out of park where the Indian passengers cheered wildly every time Gio shrieked or waved his arms. Needless to say, it was a loud ride down! Gio loves the attention he gets here.
Went on to tea museum. Gio asleep on the way so I stayed in the car with him while the others went it. Raining very heavily. Once he woke we went in just in time for the tea tasting- delicious. Visit to a beautiful church (simple stone and wood inside- none of the gawdy overdecoration of most Indian churches) and some shopping for spices and nuts. Back to hotel to put Gio to bed. I again stayed back while the others went to dinner. Enjoying Curtis Sittenfeld's book "American Wife." Thunderstorms tonight.
Monday, Sept 14- Took Gio on a run to the tea plantation where we toured yesterday. Breakfast (Gio ate lots- dosa, omelette, potatoes, fruit!). Drove to an elephant park where we all took rides. Such incredible creatures. Then a long drive to the resort Coconut Lagoon- spectacular with cottages spread out around a seaside area with a pool, swings, etc. We all swam as the sun was setting. After Gio asleep a woman came to sit with him so we could ALL go to dinner. Yeah!! Excellent food including very naughty chocolate balls. I went back early to relieve babysitter while Paolo and others tried out the bar and played chess.
Tues, Sept 15- Up very early so out to explore the grounds with him in Bjorn. We are on largest freshwater lake in the backwaters of Kerala. Visited butterfly garden and tried out swings. Met others and we all took a pre-breakfast swim. BF delicious- everything from dosas to American-style pancakes, cereal, eggs to order. Love breakfast buffets! A walk to the nearby village after Gio's nap and then waited for our houseboat to arrive which was perfect for us- 3 clean bedrooms and a comfortable sitting area in front. Gio fell asleep soon after we boarded. Served fish, veggies and rice for lunch then we played cards and read until Gio woke 2+ hours later. As we were feeding him lunch (and snacking on banana fritters and tea), the engine broke down. Ah, India. Incredible? Sure, but not when it comes to engine maintenance! Eventually we were back underway. Gio happy sitting up with us in the front as we all enjoyed the sunset. Dinner was prawns, chicken, rice, okra and a coconut salad. Pineapple for dessert.
Wed, Sept 16- Gio awake by 5- not able to settle again so he and I came out on deck to play. Beautiful morning. After breakfast (frittata, toast, mango juice), Gio back to sleep and we sat to watch life along the banks of the water as we cruised to port. Then a 4 hour drive to Kovalam to the Travancore Heritage. Resort is ok- not my favorite. Rooms are 2nd story hotel block types and one of two pools is closed. Beach is fabulous (exceptionally clean for India) but the walk to get there is drudgery- rusty stairs, trekking through a seemingly empty eerie hotel. Oh well. Took a swim in pool (and cut my knee badly on broken tiles) and then tried to get G to take a much-needed nap. No luck. So walked him down in Bjorn to beach where others were hanging out. This is definitely the best part of resort. G had his first dip in the ocean! He was too tired to really react but still fun for Paolo to introduce him to the sea.
Thurs, Sept 17- A very loud Catholic festival began on the beach at 5:00. When G woke we went on a run through the roads behind the resort. Quite fun actually to see the homes and to greet all of the people going on about their morning routines. Children were especially amused by us and eager to shout "Good Morning!" and "How are you?". When we returned the others headed out on a run on the beach. They ended up having a terrific time watching (and helping!) the fishermen pull in their nets and then the women conduct actions for the catch. Breakfast and a swim in the pool until G became crabby (quite hot) and we returned to the room for nap #2. Lunch then to beach. Gio still not a happy boy so we did not last too long. I took a walk along beach to "take a break" but after seeing a dead dog and a man pooping I turned back in disgust. Took G back for a showe with Paolo and a short nap (#3). Horrible church chanting began again which woke him up so we played a bit and then took a walk into village to buy Gio a ball and me a Diet Coke. Fun to see real life here. Back to have a drink with Paolo (Gio tasted beer...and liked it!!) and then Paolo stayed to work while I took G back to put him to bed. Dinner while babysitter stayed with G. Rain.
Fri, Sept 18-woken again at 5 by blasting music. Not a plus of this resort. P got up with us and we headed to the beach. I ran along the shoreline village and into the interior again while P took G onto the beach to watch the fishermen haul in their nets. G touched his first fish. He was quite shocked by the taste when he put his thumb back into his mouth! Returned to room so G could nap. Breakfast, a swim and then packed up to head to airport.
